For years, my husband and I talked about going to Alaska. We’d see stunning photos of glaciers, hear stories about spotting whales or bears, and say, “One day we’ll do that.” Well, at the end of June through early July, “one day” finally arrived. Alaska has always been on our list, but we wanted to do it in a way that matched the kind of trip we had in mind: special, comfortable, and personal. This was our hard-earned vacation, and we didn’t want to be part of the “cattle call” of thousands of people spilling into tiny port towns at once.
Instead, we chose Silversea Cruises — a line known for smaller ships and exceptional service. I can honestly say: it was one of the best decisions we’ve ever made.
Why We Chose Silversea
Silversea is a luxury cruise line, but what really drew us was the intimacy. Their ships don’t carry thousands of passengers — they carry hundreds. That alone changes everything about the cruise experience. You don’t wait in long lines to board. You don’t spend half your day waiting to disembark at a port. You’re not squeezed shoulder-to-shoulder on deck trying to catch a glimpse of the scenery. Instead, everything feels calm, spacious, and unhurried — which is exactly the way we wanted to experience Alaska.
Our cabin was a Veranda Suite, and each suite on Silversea comes with its own butler. Ours was Nathan, and he made us feel completely spoiled. He learned quickly what we liked and went above and beyond — from small things like making sure our mini-fridge was stocked with our favorite drinks to arranging a special bath one evening with candles, champagne, and bath salts. It was indulgent, yes, but in the best way. When you’re in the middle of the world’s most rugged wilderness, it feels even more surreal to step back onboard into that kind of comfort.
Dining on Silversea is also an experience. No buffets with long lines here. Meals are served in restaurants where the service is refined, and the food is incredible — fresh seafood, perfectly prepared meats, decadent desserts. You could eat in a different venue almost every night, and we did. But more than anything, it was the sense of ease: nothing rushed, no pressure, just quality and care in every interaction.
Setting Sail from Vancouver
Our journey began in Vancouver, a city that has long been considered one of the most beautiful cruise departure points in the world. Surrounded by water and mountains, Vancouver sets the stage for Alaska perfectly. The moment we left the port and began cruising along the Inside Passage, we knew this was going to be a special trip.
Ketchikan: Falling in Love with Kayaking
Our first port of call was Ketchikan, known for its colorful houses perched on stilts and its reputation as the “salmon capital of the world.” Instead of a big group tour, we chose to do something a little more active — sea kayaking.
It turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip. Kayaking in Alaska is both serene and exhilarating. The water was calm that morning, the mountains rose dramatically around us, and we felt completely immersed in nature. Paddling quietly, we could hear eagles above us and the gentle splash of the paddle in the water.
This experience ignited something in us. We loved it so much that, when we got home, we went out and bought two kayaks of our own. Now, we spend weekends kayaking back home — something we never expected to come from our trip. It’s amazing how a vacation activity can turn into a lifelong passion.
Juneau: Whales and Wild Beauty
In Juneau, we took advantage of one of Silversea’s included excursions: whale watching. We boarded a small boat with a naturalist guide, and it wasn’t long before we were rewarded with the sight of humpback whales breaching in the distance. The sheer size of these creatures is humbling, and seeing them in their natural habitat is something I’ll never forget.
Juneau itself is charming, with its colorful shops and mountain backdrop, but being out on the water among whales was the highlight.
Skagway: History, Trains, and Bears
In Skagway, we had originally signed up for another kayaking trip. Unfortunately, since we were the only ones who signed up, the excursion was canceled. While at first we were disappointed, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise.
Instead, we boarded the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad — a historic narrow-gauge train that climbs nearly 3,000 feet in just 20 miles, following the trail that Gold Rush stampeders once trudged. The scenery was breathtaking: waterfalls cascading down cliffs, rugged valleys, and even a Gold Rush cemetery tucked into the forest.
The biggest surprise came as we were riding back. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted movement along the tracks — a brown bear. It was lumbering slowly, unfazed by our presence. That moment, brief as it was, reminded me of just how wild Alaska truly is.
When we returned to Skagway later in the day, the difference between our smaller ship experience and the mass-market ones was obvious. Larger cruise ships had arrived, and the streets were jammed with people. I was so glad we’d explored earlier, with the town still relatively quiet.
Sitka: Eagles Overhead
Sitka ended up being one of my favorite stops. It was rainy and chilly, but none of that mattered. We signed up for another kayaking trip and spent the day paddling along the coast. What made it so incredible were the bald eagles — they were everywhere. We saw them perched in trees, swooping overhead, and even resting on the shoreline. At one point, I looked up and counted five circling in the sky at once.
As someone who grew up in Aruba — a warm, sunny island — I thought the rain and cold would bother me. But it didn’t. There’s something about Alaska’s raw beauty that makes you forget the discomfort. You’re just too busy taking it all in.
Cruising the Hubbard Glacier
Before reaching our final port, we had one of the most awe-inspiring experiences of the trip: cruising past the Hubbard Glacier. This is one of the very few glaciers in the world that is not receding, and it’s massive — more than six miles wide where it meets the ocean.
We stood on deck, bundled up, as we listened to the sounds of the ice cracking and watched chunks calve off into the sea. At one point, we saw a seal lounging peacefully on an ice floe, completely unbothered by our presence. The scale of it all is impossible to describe. Nature here feels larger than life.
Disembarking in Seward and Hiking Exit Glacier
Our Silversea cruise ended in Seward. Normally, Silversea provides a seamless transfer from Seward to Anchorage, included in the fare. But we wanted to do something different — something that would challenge us.
We signed up with Kenai Backcountry Adventures for a hike up to Exit Glacier. We had no idea just how challenging it would be.
We started at 9 a.m., and we didn’t finish until 5 p.m. The trail is steep, climbing 1,300 feet over just 1.3 miles. Our guides, two young women in their early 20s, impressed us with their skill and stamina. At 22, I certainly wasn’t guiding tourists up glaciers! But in Alaska, it seems like many of the summer guides are young adventurers from other states, drawn by the chance to live and work in this wild place.
The hike itself was grueling. We were outfitted with crampons, helmets, and harnesses, and briefed on crevasse safety. I hadn’t quite realized how technical glacier hiking could be. But once we reached the ice, it was exhilarating. Looking out across the crevasses, hearing the meltwater rushing below, and knowing we had climbed there under our own power gave me such a sense of accomplishment.
The descent was almost harder than the climb. Coming down that steep incline put so much pressure on our toes, and by the time we reached the bottom, all of us were sore and tired. But we also felt proud. To this day, I still can’t quite believe I did it.
Anchorage and Beyond
After the hike, our guides kindly dropped us at the Seward Windsong Lodge. We weren’t staying there, but the staff let us store our luggage while we had a well-deserved dinner at the Resurrection Roadhouse, their onsite restaurant. The meal was hearty and satisfying — exactly what we needed after such a tough day.
We then caught the Park Connection bus to Anchorage. The ride was scenic, but we were so exhausted that we slept through most of it.
Arriving in Anchorage on July 3, we checked into our hotel and got some rest. The next day, July 4th, the city was buzzing. There was a festival at Delaney Park, and the atmosphere was festive. But we had already booked another adventure: kayaking among icebergs at Spencer Glacier.
This time, we went with Greatland Adventures. Our guide, Tim, was a local Alaskan — one of the few we met on the trip. He picked us up right on time, sandwiches and cookies in hand for the ride. We drove along the stunning Seward Highway, hugging the Turnagain Arm, until we reached the Alaska Railroad Portage Depot.
From there, we boarded the Glacier Discovery Train to the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop. The train itself was fascinating, packed with families headed out to camp or hike for the holiday. At the Whistle Stop, we saw an incredible sight: guides unloading rafts, camping gear, even crates of dogs. The organization of it all was impressive.
Our kayaking experience was challenging — it was windy, and paddling among icebergs is no easy task. But it was also magical. To be in a small kayak, surrounded by floating ice, with a glacier looming nearby, felt surreal. It was another bucket-list moment for me.
The Final Days: Moose, Denali, and Reflection
After our glacier kayaking adventure, we spent another night in Anchorage. The following day, we set out in search of two things: a great photo of Denali and a chance to see moose. Amazingly, we succeeded at both. Seeing Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, on a clear day is a gift — it’s often shrouded in clouds. And spotting moose in their natural habitat felt like the perfect ending to our Alaskan adventure.
Looking Back
When I think back on this trip, what strikes me most is how it combined luxury and adventure in such a seamless way. Onboard Silversea, we had comfort, elegance, and service that made us feel pampered every step of the way. Off the ship, we had raw, thrilling adventures: kayaking in icy waters, hiking a glacier, spotting wildlife in the wild.
It was the best of both worlds.
Now that I’ve experienced Southeast Alaska by cruise — which truly is the best way to see that part of the state — I’m already dreaming of going back. Next time, I want to go in winter. I want to ride the Alaska Railroad Aurora Winter Train, see the Northern Lights, and try winter activities like dog sledding. Alaska is one of those places that keeps calling you back.
If you’re ready to answer that call, I’d love to help. Whether you want the luxury of Silversea or a custom mix of land and sea adventures, I can create an itinerary that takes all the stress out of planning. All you have to do is pack your bags and get ready for one of the most unforgettable trips of your life.